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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a composition in the form of a nano- or microemulsion, comprising: at least two fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol different a) and b); c) at least one polyol with a total content greater than 15% by weight; d) at least one oil, e) water, and f) optionally at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II), it being understood that said composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II) when the first ester of fatty acid and (poly) glycerol is a polygylceryl laurate comprising from 3 to 6 glycerol units and that the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol is a (poly) glyceryl laurate comprising from 1 to 3 units glycerol. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for reducing and / or preventing the signs of aging of keratin materials such as the skin, by the application of such a composition.
    公开号:FR3045338A1
    申请号:FR1562744
    申请日:2015-12-18
    公开日:2017-06-23
    发明作者:Chantal Jouy；Christian Tran
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Composition comprising at least two fatty acid esters and (po-ly) glycerol, and its use in cosmetics
    The subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a nano- or a microemulsion, comprising at least two different fatty acid and poly (glycerol) esters, at least 15% polyol. (S), at least one oil, water, and optionally at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II), and the use of this composition for treating and / or preventing cutaneous signs of aging.
    Women and men currently tend to want to appear young as long as possible and therefore seek to fade the marks of aging skin, which result in particular in the form of wrinkles and fine lines. In this regard, advertising and fashion mention products intended to keep as long as possible a glowing skin without wrinkles, marks of a young skin, especially as the physical aspect acts on the psyche and / or on morale. Up to now, wrinkles and fine lines have been treated with cosmetic products containing active agents acting on the skin, for example by improving its cell renewal or by promoting the synthesis or preventing the degradation of elastic fibers. which make up the cutaneous tissue.
    The skin consists of two compartments, one superficial, the epidermis, and the other deeper, the dermis, which interact. The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells which are the keratinocytes, a very large majority, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, through its own functions, to the essential role played in the body by the skin, in particular the protective role of the body against external aggressions called "barrier function". The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohya-line grains, and finally the stratum corneum, consisting of a set of keratinocyte layers at the terminal stage of their differentiation and called corneocytes. Corneocytes are anucleate cells consisting primarily of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a horny envelope.
    The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nurturing element. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix mainly composed of collagen, elastin and a substance, called the fundamental substance, comprising sulphated glycosaminoglycans (eg chondroitin sulphate) or not (eg hyaluronic acid), proteoglycans and various proteases. These components are synthesized by fibroblasts. There are also leucocytes, mast cells or tissue macrophages. Finally, the dermis is crossed by blood vessels and nerve fibers. The cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is ensured by the junction der-mo-epidermic.
    There is constantly in the epidermis production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum. However, during aging, it is possible to physiologically observe a decrease in the number of cells in the proliferation phase, and consequently a decrease in the living epidermal layers. The homeostasis of the skin, and in particular of the epidermis, results from a finely regulated balance between the processes of proliferation and differentiation of skin cells. These proliferation and differentiation processes are perfectly regulated: they participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular of a constant thickness of the epidermis. This homeostasis of the skin also contributes to maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin.
    But this homeostasis of the skin can be altered by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones ...), or environmental (UV stress, oxidative stress, irritant stress ...).
    Proliferative cells are metabolically very active and are sensitive to these deleterious factors (intrinsic or environmental) with consequent reduction of the quantity of the epidermis. Some biochemical markers characterize this loss of the regenerative capacity of the epidermis such as Sab Galactosidase activity (Dimri GP, et al., Proc Natl Acad Sci USA, 1995) or markers of cell cycle alteration such as p16 (INK4a) ( Cor-Disco S & J Invest Dermatol, 2010).
    It is therefore important to preserve this pool of cells to help delay the appearance of signs of aging.
    The cellular vitality of the keratinocytes can be diminished notably in the context of aging or because of the oxidative stress (for example solar radiation ie UV, visible, infrared), because of the aggression of the epidermis by the toxins or the metabolites of the microflora, or, more generally, during chronological aging. The capacity for renewal and differentiation of keratinocytes is reduced and the homeostasis of dependent structures, such as the barrier function of the epidermis, is impaired.
    When the regenerative potential of the epidermis becomes less important: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, leading notably to a slowing down and / or a decrease of the epidermic renewal. As a result, cell turnover no longer offsets the loss of surface-removed cells, leading to epidermal atrophy and / or decreased skin thickness. It is the same for the proliferative cells epidermal annexes, for example, the nails, resulting in a slowdown in the growth of nails.
    With age, an alteration of the barrier function develops, and in particular a decrease in the expression of proteins playing a key role in maintaining this essential function of the skin, such as filaggrin, is observed.
    Filaggrin is a protein resulting from the fragmentation of a molecule, profi-laggrine, contained in the keratinocytes of the granular layer. The expression of filaggrin is associated with the differentiation of epidermal cells, such as keratinocytes.
    It allows the aggregation of keratin filaments and participates in the formation of the cell envelope of the stratum corneum, and thus participates in the function of the cutaneous barrier.
    The alterations of epidermal homeostasis also result in a dull and / or blurred appearance of the skin complexion. The alteration of the barrier function is manifested by various signs depending on the localization: dry skin, hyperkeratosis, fine epidermis, thin lips, superficial wrinkles.
    The disorders associated with an alteration of the cellular vitality of the epidermis therefore concern not only its structure, but also its homeostasis. The stress resistance of the epidermis and its capacity for regeneration are reduced. If we compare the skin barrier of an elderly person with that of a young adult, the differences do not appear at first sight: the thickness of the stratum corneum and the composition of its lipids are not necessarily altered, and the barrier function expressed by the loss of insensitive water is retained. Deficiencies of the aged cutaneous barrier appear under mechanical stress or when exposed to irritating factors: the barrier of the aged epidermis deteriorates more rapidly, and its function recovers less quickly. In everyday life, alcoholic disinfection, contact with lemon juice or other irritants cause tingling and burning, dry air is poorly tolerated, while young skin tolerates this without problems. An altered skin barrier also facilitates the contact of allergens with the epidermis immune system, increasing the risk of allergic sensitization. At present there is sufficient evidence that senescent cells accumulate with age in the body. Senescence Associated β-Galactosidase is a marker of senescent cells and its accumulation has been shown in vivo in the skin (Dimai GP et al Proc Nat Acad Sci USA 1995; 92 (20): 9363-7).
    Another marker of senescence is the alteration of mitochondrial function. The role of mitochondria is the production of cellular energy.
    The clinical signs of the phenomenon of photo aging have been widely described (Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 2008 (4) Fourtanier A, Moyal D, Seité S.).
    Intrinsic aging, also called chronological aging, of the skin is described as resulting from an alteration of the cellular vitality like what happens in other organs. Intrinsic aging, or chronological aging, is manifested by other markers and clinical signs, in particular the alteration of the barrier function as described above (Farage MA & al 2009; 10 (2): 73-86).
    These aesthetic signs of skin aging such as dry skin, wrinkles, fine lines make that there is a need in cosmetics of compounds acting on the skin to improve cellular vitality when it is impaired.
    Unexpectedly, it has been found in the context of the present invention that the particular compositions according to the invention described below are capable of stimulating the expression of filaggrin by normal human keratinocytes, and in particular of stimulating an increase in the thickness of the epidermis These compositions will therefore be particularly useful for preventing or limiting the consequences of skin aging, including in particular the stimulation of the proliferation of keratinocytes and the synthesis of skin structure molecules, such as filaggrin.
    The inventors have, in particular, unexpectedly discovered a composition in the form of a nano- or microemulsion comprising at least two different fatty acid and poly (glycerol) esters, at least 15% of polyol (S), at least one oil, water, and optionally at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II), stable and having in particular good sensory properties, and having in particular with a transparent or slightly translucent appearance.
    Accordingly, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, comprising; a) a first fatty acid polyglycerol ester which is selected from a fatty acid and polyglycerol ester of at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 glycerol units; b) a second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol (c) which is selected from a fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from at 18 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 glycerol units; c) at least one polyol with a total content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; d) at least one oil; e) water, and f) optionally at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II)
    (II) wherein: R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 7 to 17 carbon atoms, R 2 is H or methyl, R 3 is H, COO-M +, M CH 2 COO- or COOH, n is 0 to 2, X is COO or SO 3 - and M is independently H, sodium, potassium or sorbitan; it being understood that said composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II) (f), preferably sodium N-methylstearoyltaurate, when the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester (a) is a polygylceryl laurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units and the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol (b) is a (poly) glyceryl laurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units.
    In a particular embodiment of the invention, the present invention relates to a composition as defined above not comprising hesperetin or being free of hesperetin. Since the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, the composition can be used preferably for lotions and the like. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can produce a pleasant texture and provides moisturizing properties as well as increased flexibility.
    Hereinafter, the composition, preferably cosmetic, according to the present invention is described in more detail.
    The composition of the invention may be a cosmetic composition (either intended for cosmetic use) or dermatological. Preferably, according to the invention, the composition is a cosmetic composition and even more preferentially a cosmetic composition for topical application.
    The term "cosmetic composition" is understood to mean a substance or a preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body, in particular the epidermis, the hair and hair systems, the nails, the lips and the oral mucosa, in particular view, exclusively or mainly, to clean, embellish, perfume, change the appearance, protect, maintain or repair body odors.
    The subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for preventing and / or reducing the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the cutaneous signs chosen from the wrinkled skin, the skin having an alteration of its properties. viscoelastic or biomechanical, the skin exhibiting an alteration in the cohesion of its tissues, skin thinned, and the skin having an alteration of its surface appearance.
    The subject of the present invention is furthermore a cosmetic treatment method for reducing and / or preventing the signs of aging of keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that the skin, in particular the skin, is preferably applied to the keratin materials. mature and / or wrinkled, a composition as defined above
    Fatty acid esters of (polv) glvcerol (a) and (b)
    The composition according to the present invention comprises at least two fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol different from each other.
    The composition according to the invention; a) a first fatty acid polyglycerol ester which is selected from a fatty acid and polyglycerol ester of at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 glycerol units, preferably 5 to 6 glycerol units, and b) a second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol which is selected from a fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 3 glycerol units.
    The fatty acid and glycerol or polyglycerol esters used in the context of the present invention are nonionic surfactants which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C.
    The compositions according to the invention comprise at least two fatty acid esters of glycerol or polyglycerol, optionally polyoxyalkylenated.
    In the context of the present invention, mention may also be made of oxyalkylenated glycerol esters and in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl and fatty acid esters and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from glyceryl esters of hydrogenated and oxyethylenated fatty acids, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm Ll-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 gly-ceryl cocoate sold under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and their mixtures.
    The (poly) glycerol esters according to the invention are glycerol esters (or mono-glyceryl esters) or polyglycerol esters (or polyglyceryl esters) such as diglyceryl (or diglycerol) esters.
    According to one embodiment, the (poly) glycerol ester according to the invention results from the esterification of at least one fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, and a (poly) glycerol.
    The term "(poly) glycerol" refers to glycerol or glyceryl polymers. When it is a polymer, polyglycerol is generally a linear sequence of 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 12 glycerol units.
    In the context of the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylenated (poly) glycerol" corresponds to polyoxyalkylenated ethers of glycerol (or polyglycerol) and preferably polyoxyethylenated ethers (or polyethylene glycol).
    The esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of poly (glycerol) and carboxylic acid (s) C12-C20, preferably C12 to C18, preferably C12 for fatty acid and polyglycerol esters (a), such as lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic, and myrsitic acids.
    The esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of poly (glycerol) and carboxylic acid (s) C6-C18, preferably C12-C18, preferably C10 -C12 for fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol (b), such as capric, car-pylic or lauric acids. The carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
    Preferably, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid. In general, they derive from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a poly (glycerol) with a C 12 -C 20, preferably C 12 -C 18, and more particularly C 6 -C 18 carboxylic acid. C18, especially C10 to C12. According to a particular embodiment, the esters that are suitable for the present invention can be derived from the esterification of a poly (glycerol) with one or more carboxylic acids, which are identical or different. It may be a hydroxylated mono-ester, a hydroxylated di-ester, a hydroxylated tri-ester, or a mixture thereof.
    A preferred cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a (po-ly) glycerol ester selected from the group consisting of glycerol and glycerol polymers.
    In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester a) is chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monololeate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units. , polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-myristate comprising from 4 to 6 units of glycerol; to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.
    In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol b) is chosen from (poly) glyceryl monolaurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly) monol glyceryl comprising 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly) glyceryl monocaprylate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly) glyceryl monostearate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.
    In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester a) has a HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilie Balance) value of 10 to 13, and / or the second fatty acid ester of (poly) glycerol b) has an HLB value of 8 to 10.
    Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester a) which is a polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 4 to 6 glycerol units, in particular PG-5 laurate, and that the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol b) is chosen from (po-ly) glyceryl monolaurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, monolacaprate of (po-
    Iy) glyceryl comprising 1 to 3 glycerol units, preferably is selected from PG-2 laurate and PG-2 caprate.
    Preferably, the fatty acid ester of (poly) glycerol (a) is chosen from a mixture of fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol, in particular formed from 3 to 6 glycerol units, from preferably formed from 5 or 6 glycerol units, and wherein the mixture preferably comprises at least 30% or more of fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol comprising 5 to 6 glycerol units.
    Preferably, the raw material of fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol (a) present in the composition of the invention comprises esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols containing 70% or more of polyglycerols whose degree depolymerization is 4 or more, fatty acid esters and polyglycerols containing 30% or less of polymerization with a degree of polymerization of 5.
    Esters selected from the mono- and / or di-glyceryl capry-late, mono- and / or di-glyceryl heptanoate, mono- and / or di-glyceryl caprylate and propylene caprylate are particularly suitable for the invention. glycol, propylene glycol heptanoate and mixtures thereof.
    It is more particularly monoglyceryl caprylate (also called glycerol caprylate) and its mixtures.
    In a particularly advantageous manner, the composition according to the invention comprises; as the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, and / or as a second fatty acid and poly (glycerol) ester, polygleryl-2 laurate or polyglyceryl-2 caprate; .
    Polyglyceryl-5 laurate or PG-5 laurate is available under the trade name LAURATE SUNSOFT A-121E® by the company Taiyo Kagaku.
    Polygleryl-2 laurate or PG-2 laurate is available under the trade name SUNSOFT Q-12D-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku.
    Polyglyceryl-2 caprate or PG-2 caprate is available under the trade name SUNSOFT Q-10D-C® by Taiyo Kagaku.
    In the compositions according to the invention the total amount of the ester (s) of fatty acid and (poly) glycerol! (a) may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    In the compositions according to the invention the total amount of the ester (9) of fatty acid and (poly) glycerol (b) may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    In the compositions according to the invention, the total amount of fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol (a) and (b) present ranges from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 3.5% to 16% by weight, still more preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    More particularly in the compositions according to the invention, the mass ratio [total amount of the fatty acid ester (s) and polyglycerol (a)] and [total amount of the acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (b)] ranges from 0.2 to 10, in particular from 0.5 to 5, preferably from 1 to 2.
    Polvol (cl
    The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyol,
    The total amount of polyol (s) present in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Polyol according to the invention is understood to mean a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and bearing at least two hydroxy groups. The polyols used in the present invention may have a weight average molecular weight less than or equal to 1000, preferably between 90 and 500.
    The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
    The polyol may be selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol 1,5-pentanediol, octane 1,2-diols, polyethyleneglycols, especially having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and a mixture thereof.
    More particularly, the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
    The said polyol (s) may be present in a content ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20% to 40% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 20% to 30% by weight.
    Oil (d)
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil (d). According to the present invention, an "oil" refers to a compound or fatty substance (se) which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile. The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
    It is preferred that the oil (d) be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
    Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, castor oil, oil, and the like. olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil and mixtures thereof.
    As examples of animal oils, it may be mentioned, for example, squalene and squalane.
    As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkanes such as isododecane and isohexadecane, fatty esters, fatty ethers, and artificial C6-C22 acid triglycerides.
    The fatty esters are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the fatty esters being greater than or equal to 10.
    Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.
    Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
    Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or non-carbohydric C4-C26 pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. to be used.
    It can be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate; iso-propyllauryl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
    As fatty esters, it is possible to use fatty acid esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon-based compounds containing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
    Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
    The fatty acid esters of sugar may be chosen, in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and linear or branched C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated double bonds.
    Esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
    These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myris-tates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, esters. mixed oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
    More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
    An example that can be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol company, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
    As preferred examples of fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl lau-spleen, octanoate of cetyl, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate , isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetra (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
    As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri ( glyceryl caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
    As examples of silicone oils, there may be mentioned, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopen-tasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
    Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) and liquid polyorga-nosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
    These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The orga-nomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.
    Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
    Volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldi-methicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes may be used.
    The hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid paraffin gel, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as ParleamD, and squalane.
    As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (for example liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphtha -talenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
    It is also preferable that the oil (d) is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
    Preferably, the oil (d) is chosen from fatty esters having a C 1 -C 12 hydrocarbon chain or chains (for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate). ), hydrocarbon oils (eg, isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol oils such as octyldodecanol, oleic alcohol, fatty ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
    Particularly preferably, the oil (d) is selected from ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate.
    Ethylhexyl palmitate is available under the trade name ETHYL 2 HEXYL PALMITATE (DUB PO) ® from the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS.
    The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the oil (s) (d) may be present in a content of 0.50% to 80% by weight, in particular from 1% to 50% by weight preferably from 0.5% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and still more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    In a particular embodiment, the (s) fatty acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (b) and the oil (s) (d) are present in a composition according to the invention as defined above, in a mass ratio [total amount of fatty acid ester (s) and (poly) glycerol (b) / oil (s) (d)] which ranges from 0.50 to 10, preferably goes from 1 to 5.
    Water (e)
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water,
    The amount of water (e) is not limited, and may range from 30 to 90% by weight, preferably from 35 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, based on the weight total of the composition.
    The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant different from the fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol (a) and (b) as defined above.
    Additional anionic surfactant ffl
    The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional anionic surfactant other than the fatty acid ester (s) and (po-ly) glycerol (a) and (b) as defined above.
    The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant of salt (fatty acid amide) sulfonate.
    The said anionic surfactant (s) is at least one sulphonate salt (fatty acid amide) surfactant represented by the following formula (II):
    (II) wherein: R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 7 to 17 carbon atoms, R 2 is H or methyl, R 3 is H, COO-M +, M CH 2 COO- or COOH, n is 0 to 2, X is COO or SO 3 - and M is independently H, sodium, potassium or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
    Such anionic surfactants are those described in EP2335681.
    Preferably, the anionic surfactants (f) are chosen from surfactants of the taurate, glutamate, alanine or alaninate, sarcosinate and aspartate type, and mixtures thereof.
    Preferably, the anionic surfactants are surfactants of the taurate, glutamate, sarcosinate type and / or their mixtures.
    In a particularly preferred manner, the anionic surfactants (f) are taurate surfactants.
    In particular, taurate surfactants are according to general formula (III)
    (III) wherein: R 1 is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably 9 to 13 carbon atoms, R2 is H or a methyl group, and M is H, sodium or potassium.
    The anionic surfactants of formula (III) may be chosen from potassium cocoyltaurate, potassium methylcocoyltaurate, sodium caproylmethyltaurate, sodium cocoyltaurate, sodium lauroyltaurate, sodium methylcocoyltaurate and sodium methyllauroyltaurate. sodium methylmyris-toyltaurate, sodium methyloloyltaurate, sodium methylpalmitoyltaurate and sodium methylstearoyltaurate and mixtures thereof.
    More particularly, the ionic surfactant (s) of formula (II) are chosen from potassium cocoyltaurate, potassium methylcocoyltaurate, sodium cocoyltaurate, sodium lauroyltaurate, sodium methylcocoyltaurate and sodium methyllauroyltaurate, and mixtures thereof.
    The compositions of the present invention may also comprise mixtures of anionic surfactants of the amino acid type, such as the mixture of anionic surfactants of glutamate and taurate type, a mixture of taurates, or a mixture of surfactants of glutamate and sarcosinate type.
    Anionic surfactant of the amino acid type is understood to mean surfactants which are derived from taurate, glucamate, alanine or alaninate, sarcosinate and aspartate.
    With the term amino acid surfactant, in particular the surfactants, are meant derivatives of taurate, glucamate, alanine or alaninate, sarcosi-nate and aspartate.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, at least one anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of isethionate, taurate, sarcosinate, sulfosuccinate, sulfoacetate, glycinate, glutamate and carboxylate, wherein less an anionic surfactant has a C8 to C20 alkyl chain, and a solubilizing counter-cation selected from sodium, potassium and ammonium.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, at least one anionic surfactant is a taurate, said taurate having a C8 to C20 alkyl chain, and a solubilizing counter-cation chosen from sodium, potassium and ammonium. .
    According to one embodiment of the invention, at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from the group consisting of sodium laurylmethylisethionate, sodium methyloloyltaurate, sodium N-myristoyl-N-methyltaurate, and coconut) sodium methyltaurate and sodium laurylmethyltaurate.
    According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant is an anionic surfactant of formula (II) in which R2 is a methyl, R1 is a linear saturated alkyl chain of 17 carbon atoms, and M is sodium, that is, sodium N-methylstearoyltaurate. The sodium N-methylstearoyltaurate is available under the trade name NIKKOL SMT® by the company Nikko.
    The total amount of the anionic surfactant (s) of formula (II), preferably of formula (III), may be from 0.01% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 1% by weight. % by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
    Thickening agent
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent. The thickening agent may be chosen from organic and inorganic thickeners. The thickening agent is preferably selected from associative thickeners and polysaccharides such as starch and xanthan gum.
    In the present context, the term "associative thickener" refers to an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, for example, comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
    The viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited. The viscosity can be measured at 25 ° C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably having a cone-plane geometry. Preferably, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be, for example, from 1 to 2000 Pa.s, and preferably from 1 to 1000 Pa.s at 25 ° C and 1 s-1. The thickener may be present in an amount in the range of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, for example from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Other components
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may furthermore comprise an effective amount of other components, previously known elsewhere in particular cosmetic compositions, such as various adjuvants, anti-aging agents, depolymerizing agents, moisturizing agents, anti-oily agents, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, anti-UV agents, preservatives (such as phenoxyethanol), vitamins or provitamins, for example, opacifiers, perfumes, plant extracts, cationic polymers, etc.
    Preparation and properties
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional components above according to a conventional method. The conventional method comprises mixing with a high pressure homogenizer (a high energy process). Alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be prepared by a low energy method such as a phase inversion temperature (PIT) method, a phase inversion concentration (PIC), autoemulsification, and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is prepared by a low energy process.
    In a particular embodiment, the mass ratio between the total amount of fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol defined in (a) and (b)) and the oil (d) in a composition according to the invention as defined above, ranges from 0.50 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5.
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or microemulsion.
    The "microemulsion" can be defined in two ways, that is, in a broad sense and in a more restricted sense. Namely, in one case ("micro-emulsion in the narrow sense"), the microemulsion denotes a thermodynamically stable single isotropic liquid phase containing a ternary system having three components comprising an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the other case ("micro-emulsion in the broad sense"), among the typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, the microemulsion further comprises emulsions having transparent or translucent aspects due to their smaller particle sizes ( Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, 37, 11 (1988), 48-53). "Microemulsion" in the present context refers to a "microemulsion in the restricted sense", i.e., a thermodynamically stable single isotropic liquid phase.
    The microemulsion denotes a state of an O / W (oil in water) type microemulsion in which the oil is solubilized by micelles, a W / H type microemulsion (water in the water). oil) in which the water is solubilized by inverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules is brought to be infinite so that the aqueous phase and the oily phase both have a continuous structure.
    The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number average diameter of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, and more preferably 20 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size.
    The "nanoemulsion" currently refers to an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase having a size less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a ring of nonionic surfactants (a) and (b) which can optionally form a crystal phase lamellar type liquid at the disperse phase / continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of the nanoemulsions is due to the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size can be obtained through the use of mechanical energy and in particular a high pressure homogenizer. In a particular nanoemulsion mode according to the invention, the latter is stabilized, in addition to the nonionic surfactants (a) and (b), by the anionic surfactant (s) (f), which in particular allows repulsion between the dispersed phase drops. .
    Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. Specifically, microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed, for example, swollen micelles of nonionic surfactants (a) and (b) with oil (d). In addition, the microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy to be prepared.
    The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number average diameter of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size.
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion O / W, a nano- or microemulsion W / O or a bicontinuous emulsion. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or microemulsion O / W.
    It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion.
    The average size of the oily phase droplets is measured concentrated by dynamic light scattering (DDL) with a VASCO granulometer.
    These measurements are performed on the undiluted emulsion.
    The number average size (pm) of the oily phase droplets of the composition of the invention is less than 300 nm and preferably 10 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably 20 nm to 100 nm.
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.
    Transparency can be measured by measuring the transmission factor with an absorption spectrometer in the visible region (for example, transparency is measured with a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25 ° C. The portable turbidimeter uses the nephelometric measurement principle of Turbidity The nephelometric turbidity measurement depends on the detection of the light dispersed by the particles in suspension in the liquid The unit of measurement is the NTU A round bowl 60 x 25 cm made of borosilicate glass with a stopper is used. The required sample quantity is 15 mL The measuring range is ΟΙ 000 NTU The samples are measured undiluted.
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity of between 1 and 200 NTU and preferably between 5 and 100 NTU.
    Method and use The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of a composition according to the invention as described above.
    Said cosmetic treatment method is non-therapeutic.
    In one embodiment, said composition according to the invention does not comprise hesperitin.
    More particularly, the subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of skincare, makeup, and / or cleaning of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising the application on said keratin materials, in particular the skin, of a composition. according to the invention as described above.
    Said method of cosmetic treatment of care, makeup, and / or cleansing of the skin is non-therapeutic.
    More particularly, the subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs of aging, comprising at least one step of topical application to keratin materials, such as the skin, of a composition. according to the invention as described above.
    The cutaneous signs of the aging to be prevented and / or treated in the cosmetic process according to the invention may be chosen from the lines and wrinkles, the skin having an alteration of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, the skin having an alteration in the cohesion of its tissues, thinned skin, and skin with impaired surface appearance.
    More particularly, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs of aging, comprising at least one step of topical application to keratin materials, such as the skin, of a composition according to the invention. invention as described above, characterized in that it is intended to promote the renewal of keratinocytes and to reduce or prevent signs selected from the thinning of the epidermis, superficial wrinkles, alterations of the barrier function, properties of extensibility, tonicity, firmness of suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention as defined above, for the care, makeup and / or cleaning of keratin materials.
    More particularly, the subject of the invention is also the use of a composition according to the invention as defined above for preventing and / or reducing the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the cutaneous signs chosen from the wrinkled skin, the skin presenting with alteration of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, the skin showing an alteration in the cohesion of its tissues, the thinned skin, and the skin having an alteration of its surface appearance. The use according to the invention is a non-therapeutic use and advantageously a cosmetic use; by cosmetic is meant to improve the aesthetic appearance of keratin materials, such as skin or nails, and in particular to delay or reduce physiological changes in the appearance occurring with age, healthy individuals. These changes can appear as early as 30 or 35 years, but are generally more pronounced after 40 years (mature skin), and increase at 50 years or more.
    The compositions according to the invention are effective for improving the epidermic renewal and for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin aging, in particular by the topical route, and most particularly the cutaneous signs related to wrinkled skin, skin with a deterioration of the skin. its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, a skin exhibiting an alteration in the cohesion of its tissues, a thinned skin and / or a skin having an alteration of its surface appearance.
    Indeed, it has now been found that compositions according to the invention in the form of a nano- or a microemulsion, comprising at least two different fatty acid and (poly) glycerol esters, at least 15 % of polyol (s), at least one oil, water, and optionally at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II), are capable of stimulating the expression of filaggrin, and / or of preventing the decrease of the thickness of the epidermis.
    Such compositions therefore prove to be particularly advantageous for the prevention and / or treatment of the signs of cutaneous aging, as explained above, in particular the expression of filaggrin being involved in the formation of the stratum corneum. The use of the compositions according to the invention may more particularly make it possible to maintain and / or restore the biomechanical properties of the skin.
    By "biomechanical properties of the skin" is meant here the properties of extensibility, tonicity, firmness, suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin. By "cutaneous signs of aging" is meant here any modification of the external appearance of the skin due to aging whether chronobiological and / or extrinsic, especially induced or hormonal photo; Among these signs, we can distinguish: - wrinkled skin, which is reflected in particular by the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines; the skin having an alteration of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, or skin having a lack of elasticity and / or of extensibility and / or firmness and / or of flexibility and / or tonicity, which is reflected in particular by a skin withered, soft, loosened or drooped; the skin exhibiting an alteration of the cohesion of its tissues; - thinned skin; and the skin having an alteration of its surface appearance, which results in particular in an alteration of the grain of the skin, for example a roughness. The invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or reducing the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the cutaneous signs chosen from the wrinkled skin, the skin having an alteration of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties. , the skin exhibiting an alteration in the cohesion of its tissues, the thinned skin, and the skin having an alteration of its surface appearance.
    The term "keratin materials" according to the invention is understood to mean the skin, the body, the face and / or the contour of the eyes, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, or any other cutaneous zone of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the skin.
    By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the skin. face, including forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, eye area.
    As specified below, hesperetin is advantageously present in the compositions in accordance with the invention in a solubilized form. By way of example, the composition according to the invention may be intended to be administered topically, that is to say by surface application of the keratinic material in question, such as the skin in question, possibly by application of a transdermal patch comprising it.
    The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic method, such as a cosmetic process, for treating the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelids, by application to the skin, the mucous membranes, nails, or eyelids.
    The present invention further relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as such or in care products and / or detergents and / or make-up products and / or makeup removers for the skin of the body and / or the face and / or the mucous membranes and / or the nails and / or the eyelids.
    The care product may be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a sunscreen, and the like. The cleaning product may be a facial cleanser, a hand cleaner, and the like. The makeup product may be a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blush, an eye shadow, a nail polish, and the like. The makeup remover may be a makeup cleaner and the like.
    A composition according to the invention is advantageously an anti-aging composition, in particular a care intended to treat and / or fight, in particular cosmetically, against the external signs of skin aging.
    The composition is more particularly a skincare composition for mature skin.
    The expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ...", or "at least ..", or "at least .." must be understood as inclusive, unless the opposite is specified.
    The present invention is described in more detail by way of examples, which should not, however, be considered as limiting the scope of the present invention.
    The compounds are indicated in chemical name or INCI name.
    The contents of the ingredients are expressed in percentage by weight.
    Example 1 Cosmetic Composition According to the Invention
    A facial care lotion having the following composition was prepared:
    Preparation method: (1) ethylhexyl palmitate, sodium N-methylstearoyltaurate, poly-glyceryl-5 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 laurate were mixed to form an oily phase A; (2) the oily phase A was heated to about 70 ° C; (3) water B was added to the oily phase A with stirring to obtain an oil-in-water microemulsion; (4) the polyol (butylene glycol) was mixed, and then solution C was added to the microemulsion. (5) Phase D (phenoxyethanol and 1,2-octane diol) was added.
    The composition is monophasic and limpid, it remains stable and homogeneous after storage for 3 months at 40 ° C.
    This composition can be applied regularly on the skin of the face to reduce the signs of skin aging.
    Example 2 Cosmetic Composition According to the Invention
    A facial care lotion having the following composition was prepared:
    Method of Preparation (1) isipropyl myristate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 caprate were mixed to form an oil phase A; (2) the oily phase A was heated to about 70 ° C; (3) water B was added to the oily phase A with stirring to obtain an oil-in-water microemulsion; (4) the polyol (dipropylene glycol) was mixed, then the solution C was added to the microemulsion. (5) Phase D (phenoxyethanol, ethanol and 1,2-octane diol) was added.
    The composition is monophasic and limpid, it remains stable and homogeneous after storage for 3 months at 40 ° C.
    This composition can be applied regularly to the skin of the face to reduce the signs of skin aging, and in particular to prevent or treat thinned skin.
    Example 3 Evaluation of the Beneficial Effects of a Composition According to the Invention on the Signs of Skin Aging by Evaluating the Expression of Filaggrin and the Thickness of the Epidermis
    The beneficial effects of a composition according to the invention on the signs of skin aging on mature skin have been evaluated by the Voorhees et al. (British Journal of Dermatology, 1993, 129, 389-392).
    Material and method: 29 subjects (10 men / 19 women) with photo-skin on the forearms (score> 5 on the McKenzie scale) were treated with topical patch application of different compositions for 12 days with composition 2 according to the invention in microemulsion form (composition of Example 2) Comparative Example 3, excluding the invention, which is a composition in the form of a conventional emulsion comprising 0.1% retinol by weight Comparative Example 4, excluding the invention, which is a composition identical to that of Comparative Example 3, conventional emulsion, but without the retinol active of an empty patch without composition:
    Applications of 30 microliters of formulas were carried out under patches for 12 consecutive days, the patches having been renewed every 4 days. At the final removal of the patches (day 13), cutaneous biopsies of 2 mm in diameter were performed on the application sites.
    The skin samples were fixed in phosphate buffer containing 10% formaldehyde, incorporated into the paraffin and processed for histological analysis. Part of the sections were cut to 5 microns, mounted on slides and stained with hematoxylin-like, according to standard procedures.
    The slides are photographed numerically, and the thickness of the epidermis automatically measured by a dedicated software at the rate of 15 measurements per field, each blade having two fields.
    The other paraffin sections which have been mounted on slides are deparaffinized in xylene, rehydrated and prepared for an Immunoperoxidase immunolabel according to standard procedures.
    After incubation with primary anti-filaggrin antibodies the slides were washed, incubated with the biotinylated secondary antibody. The slides are then washed and treated with avidinbiotin peroxidase for 30 minutes at room temperature. Slides were then revealed with 0.05% 3,39-diaminobenzidine and 0.03% H2O2.
    The slides are photographed numerically, and the thickness of the epidermis labeled by the antibody is measured automatically by dedicated software at the rate of 15 measurements per field, each slide having two fields.
    The results below are expressed by calculating the mean and the standard deviation for all measurements made. Statistical comparisons between treatments using mixed repeated measures (ANOVA) models. A comparison is considered significant for a p <0.05.
    The compositions of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 are compositions in emulsion form, but are not microemulsions or nanoemulsions as defined according to the invention, respectively comprising 0.1% retinol which is a well-known anti-aging active ingredient. , or 0% retinol.
    The numerical values for the amounts of the components described in the table below are all based on% by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Method of preparation :
    The preparation must be carried out in an oxygen-free atmosphere (under nitrogen) in order to avoid degradation of retinol. Heat phase A and phase B to 80 ° C. Prepare the pre-gel of the phase D by sprinkling the polymer on the water with deflocculating stirring (Rayneri) and neutralizing with the soda. Under deflocculous stirring (Rayneri), add the phase D on the phase B when the gel is homogeneous (temperature 38 ° C) add phase A with deflocculating stirring (Rayneri) to phase B + D at 1000 RPM for 3 min, then at temperature <30 ° C add retinol (E).
    These formulas of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 are stable for three months at ambient temperature or stored at 40 ° C. Results:
    Histological evaluation of the expression of Filaqqrine
    The parameter measured is the expression of filaggrin by measuring the thickness of the epidermis labeled by the antibody.
    It has been found that the expression of filaggrin is significantly higher for the skin on which the patch with the composition 2 according to the invention of the microemulsion type has been applied compared to an application with a patch comprising a composition outside the invention (example Comparative 4) of conventional emulsion type not comprising retinol (or not including antiaging agents), as well as with respect to the application with a patch comprising no composition. (P <0.05).
    It has also unexpectedly been found that the expression of filaggrin for the skin on which the patch with the composition 2 according to the invention of the microemulsion type has been applied is not significantly different compared to an application with a patch comprising a composition outside the invention (comparative example 3) comprising 0.1% retinol (which is a known anti-aging active ingredient) (p = 0.8), that is to say that the composition 2 according to the invention in the form of microemulsion premet an expression of filaggrine as good as a conventional emulsion type composition comprising an anti-aging active (retinol).
    Histological evaluation of the thickness of the epidermis
    The parameter measured is the epidermis thickness.
    It was found that the thickness of the epidermis is significantly higher after the application of the patch with the composition 2 according to the invention of the half-emulsion type compared to the application with a patch comprising no composition. (P <0.05).
    It has also unexpectedly been found that the thickness of the epidermis for the skin on which the patch with the composition 2 according to the microemulsion-type invention has been applied is not significantly different compared to an application with a patch comprising a composition outside the invention (Comparative Example 3) comprising 0.1% retinol (which is a known anti-aging active ingredient) (p = 0.25), that is to say that the composition 2 according to the invention under microemulsion form premet to obtain an epidermis thickness similar to a conventional emulsion-type composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient (retinol).
    Thus, unexpectedly, a composition according to the invention, in the form of microemulsion or nanoemulsion, and which does not include anti-aging active agents such as retinol, is significantly as effective as a conventional emulsion-type composition comprising 0, 1% retinol, to avoid or reduce the decrease in the thickness of the epidermis, and thus also effective in preventing and treating the signs of skin aging.
    Example 4 Evaluation of the Beneficial Effects of a Composition According to the Invention on the Signs of Skin Aging, such as Wrinkles and Skin Firmness or Tonicity
    The beneficial effects of a composition according to the invention on the signs of skin aging on mature or very mature skin have been evaluated by clinical evaluation and instrumental measurements.
    Material and method: 80 women aged 40 to 65 years old with clinical signs of age were treated daily with the investigational products on the face for 6 months with: composition 1 according to the invention in microemulsion form ( composition of example 1)
    The 80 subjects return to the investigation center after 7, 14, 28, 56, 84 and 168 days of treatment for clinical and instrumental evaluations.
    One of the signs of skin aging evaluated is crow's feet wrinkles, which are wrinkles at the outer corners of the eyes. Results At each evaluation visit, a trained expert scored the severity of the wrinkles of subjects who had been treated with composition 1 according to a photograhical scale graduated from 1 to 6.
    The results are expressed by calculating the average score of all the subjects evaluated. Statistical comparisons between treatments were made using mixed repeated measures (ANOVA) models. A comparison is considered significant for a p <0.05.
    Crow's foot wrinkles: change in clinical score compared to first day of study
    It has been found that by application of the composition 1 according to the invention to the skin of the face, the improvement of the score of the wrinkles of the crow's feet is significant compared to the initial state after 14 days of treatment (p < 0.001) until the end of treatment at 6 months.
    The composition 1 according to the invention applied to the skin makes it possible to reduce skin wrinkles, and especially wrinkles on the crow's feet of the face.
    Instrumental measurements of skin tonicity of the face were also carried out using a device dedicated to the cutaneous viscoelastic measurement, the cu-tometer (Courage and Khazaka, Germany). The probe is placed in contact with the skin on the cheek of the subjects and the tonicity measurement is performed instantly. The R5 tone values are then used for data analysis.
    The results are expressed by averaging the R5 values of all subjects evaluated. Statistical comparisons between treatments were made using mixed repeated measures (ANOVA) models. A comparison is considered significant for a p <0.05.
    Tonicity: variation of the R5 parameter compared to the first day of study
    It has been found that by application of the composition 1 according to the invention to the skin of the face, the improvement in the measured value of tonicity is significant compared to the initial state after 56 days of treatment (p <0.001) and this until the end of treatment at 6 months.
    The composition 1 according to the invention applied to the skin allows the improvement of cutaneous viscoelastic properties, and in particular of the tonicity of the skin, in particular of the skin of the face.
    权利要求:
    Claims (20)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, comprising; a) a first fatty acid polyglycerol ester which is selected from a fatty acid and polyglycerol ester of at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 glycerol units; b) a second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol (c) which is selected from a fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from at 18 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 glycerol units; c) at least one polyol with a total content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; d) at least one oil; e) water, and f) optionally at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II)

    (II) wherein: R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated 7-17 carbon atom chain, R 2 is H or methyl, R 3 is H, COO "M +, CH 2 COOM + or COOH, n is 0-2 X is COO 'or SO3' and M is independently H, sodium, potassium or sorbitan, it being understood that said composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II) (f) when the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester (a) is a polygylceryl laurate comprising from 3 to 6 glycerol units and that the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol (b) is a (poly) glyceryl laurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units .
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester a) is chosen from polyglyceryl-monylaurolate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monololeate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol b) is chosen from (poly) glyceryl monolaurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly) glyceryl monolcaprate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly) glyceryl mono-caprylate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly) glyceryl monostearate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof .
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester a) has an HLB value of 10 to 13, and / or in that the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol b) has an HLB value of 8 to 10.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first fatty acid and polyglycerol ester a) is a polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 4 to 6 glycerol units, in particular PG-5 laurate. , and in that the second fatty acid ester and (poly) glycerol b) is chosen from (poly) glyceryl monolaurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly) glyceryl monolacaprate comprising from 1 to 3 Glycerol units, preferably is selected from PG-2 laurate and PG-2 caprate.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic surfactant of formula (III)

    (III) wherein R 1 is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain of 7 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably 9 to 13 carbon atoms, R 2 is H or methyl, and M is H, the sodium or potassium, preferably the anionic surfactant of formula (III) is sodium N-methylstearoyltaurate.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol (a) and (b) present is from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said polyol (c) is chosen from glycerine, diglycerine, poly-glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, and sugars such as sorbitol, and a mixture thereof.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) said polyol (s) is present (s) in a content ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 20% to 30%. in weight.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said oil (s) (d) is chosen from the group consisting of vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils In particular, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils are chosen from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol, preferably ethylhexyl palmitate and / or isopropyl myristate.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio [total amount the ester (s) of fatty acid and polyglycerol (a)] and [total amount the (s) ester (s) fatty acid and (poly) glycerol (b)] ranges from 0.2 to 10, in particular from 0.5 to 5, preferably from 1 to 2.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil (s) (d) is present in a content of 0.50% to 50% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio [total amount of the fatty acid esters and (poly) glycerol (a) and (b) and the oil (s) (d)] is from 0.50 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the (s) anionic surfactant (s) of formula (II), preferably of formula (III), is present in a total content of 0.01. % to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W), and the hdile (d) is in the form of droplets. having a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition.
    [17" id="c-fr-0017]
    17. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 16, for preventing and / or reducing the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the cutaneous signs chosen from the wrinkled skin, the skin having an alteration of its properties. viscoelastic or biomechanical, the skin exhibiting an alteration in the cohesion of its tissues, skin thinned, and the skin having an alteration of its surface appearance.
    [18" id="c-fr-0018]
    18. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application to keratin materials, such as the skin, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.
    [19" id="c-fr-0019]
    19. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 18 for reducing and / or preventing the signs of aging of keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that the skin, particularly the mature skin and / or the skin, is preferably applied to the keratin materials. or wrinkled, a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 17.
    [20" id="c-fr-0020]
    20. Cosmetic treatment method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is intended to promote the renewal of keratinocytes and to reduce or prevent signs selected from the thinning of the epidermis, superficial wrinkles, alterations of the skin. barrier function, the properties of extensibility, tonicity, firmness of suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    BR112018011558A2|2018-11-27|
    FR3045338B1|2019-09-27|
    WO2017103240A9|2018-04-26|
    KR20180081814A|2018-07-17|
    JP2018537500A|2018-12-20|
    KR102140922B1|2020-08-04|
    CN108430440A|2018-08-21|
    WO2017103240A1|2017-06-22|
    EP3389611A1|2018-10-24|
    US20180360713A1|2018-12-20|
    JP6843863B2|2021-03-17|
    US20210121379A1|2021-04-29|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    WO2014098267A1|2012-12-21|2014-06-26|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition|
    FR3015246A1|2013-12-24|2015-06-26|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OIL, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND A C-GLYCOSIDE COMPOUND|
    WO2016091939A1|2014-12-12|2016-06-16|L'oreal|Composition comprising hesperetin, an oil, at least one fatty acid ester of glycerol, and a polyol|
    FR3030272A1|2014-12-23|2016-06-24|Oreal|COSMETIC PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINIC MATERIALS USING ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY BODY AND A MICROEMULSION|
    EP2335681A1|2009-12-18|2011-06-22|KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH|Cleansing composition|
    DE102010019506A1|2010-05-06|2010-12-02|Clariant International Limited|Liquid composition, useful as emulsifier to produce e.g. cream, and to produce cosmetic, dermatologic or pharmaceutical formulation, comprises phosphoric acid alkyl ester compounds and polyol, which is obtained by reacting polyol with acid|
    JP2014122198A|2012-12-21|2014-07-03|L'oreal Sa|Cosmetic composition|
    JP2014122197A|2012-12-21|2014-07-03|L'oreal Sa|Cosmetic composition|
    JP6510177B2|2014-04-01|2019-05-08|ロレアル|Compositions in the form of nano or microemulsions|
    JP6537788B2|2014-06-25|2019-07-03|ロレアル|Composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion or having a lamellar structure|JP2019064963A|2017-10-02|2019-04-25|ロレアル|Composition in form of o/w emulsion|
    WO2019204016A1|2018-04-16|2019-10-24|Lonza Inc.|Cleaning concentrate composition|
    DE102019209909A1|2019-07-05|2021-01-07|Beiersdorf Ag|Cleaning emulsion containing fatty acid polyglyceryl esters|
    WO2021134454A1|2019-12-31|2021-07-08|L'oreal|Composition for cosmetic products|
    KR102245838B1|2020-10-21|2021-05-13|나우코스|Low viscosity cosmetic composition having excelllent emulsion stability|
    法律状态:
    2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2017-06-23| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20170623 |
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2018-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1562744|2015-12-18|
    FR1562744A|FR3045338B1|2015-12-18|2015-12-18|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO ESTERS OF FATTY ACID ANDGLYCEROL, AND USE THEREOF IN COSMETICS|FR1562744A| FR3045338B1|2015-12-18|2015-12-18|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO ESTERS OF FATTY ACID ANDGLYCEROL, AND USE THEREOF IN COSMETICS|
    US16/061,849| US20180360713A1|2015-12-18|2016-12-16|Composition comprising at least two fatty acid esters of glycerol, and use thereof in cosmetics|
    CN201680073171.4A| CN108430440A|2015-12-18|2016-12-16|Including at least two（It is poly-）The composition of fatty acid glyceride and its purposes in cosmetics|
    PCT/EP2016/081623| WO2017103240A1|2015-12-18|2016-12-16|Composition comprising at least two fatty acid esters of glycerol, and use thereof in cosmetics|
    EP16822960.7A| EP3389611A1|2015-12-18|2016-12-16|Composition comprising at least two fatty acid esters of glycerol, and use thereof in cosmetics|
    JP2018531466A| JP6843863B2|2015-12-18|2016-12-16|Compositions containing at least two fatty acid esters ofglycerol, and their use in cosmetics|
    KR1020187017706A| KR102140922B1|2015-12-18|2016-12-16|Composition comprising fatty acid esters of at least two glycerols, and uses thereof in cosmetics|
    BR112018011558A| BR112018011558A2|2015-12-18|2016-12-16|composition, cosmetic use of a composition, cosmetic process for treating keratin materials and cosmetic treatment process|
    US17/139,048| US20210121379A1|2015-12-18|2020-12-31|Composition comprising at least two fatty acid esters of glycerol, and use thereof in cosmetics|
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